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Boards with ESP-Link
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====================
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This readme provides instructions for PCBs that I've made that are designed for esp-link.
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Some of the instructions may be helpful to others as well.
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esp-bridge
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The esp-bridge has an esp-03 modulde, an FTDI connector (with wrong pinout!), a 3-pin power
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and debug connector, and two buttons.
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Next to the buttons it is marked "TvE2015 esp-ftdi".
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It comes preloaded with the latest version of esp-link.
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Power: the on-board MCP1825S-33 regulator can provide 500mA and is good from about 3.6v to 6v.
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Connect power either to the 3-pin connector (GND in center, 5v towards the esp module), or to
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the FTDI connector (GND marked next to the buttons, 5V on 3rd pin).
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On power-up you should see the green LED on for ~1 second (the yellow should go on too, but
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the firmware may not be configured correctly). After that the green should blink according to the
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patterns described in the README's LED indicators section. Follow the Wifi configuration details
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section thereafter.
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To connect a JeeNode to the esp-bridge to flash it or debug it, plug it into the FTDI
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port flipped-over, i.e. the component side of the JeeNode will be on the bottom and the
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components of the esp-bridge will be on the top. (Yes, the FTDI port should have been reversed
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on the esp-bridge...)
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To program the JeeNode, having set-up the Wifi through the web pages, run avrdude with an
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option like "-Pnet:esp8266:23" (you can use an IP address instead of `esp8266`). My test command
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line is as follows:
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```
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/home/arduino/arduino-1.0.5/hardware/tools/avrdude \
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-C /home/arduino/arduino-1.0.5/hardware/tools/avrdude.conf -DV -patmega328p \
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-Pnet:esp8266:23 -carduino -b115200 -U flash:w:greenhouse.hex:i
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```
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If you're using "edam's Arduino makefile" then you can simply set `SERIALDEV=net:bbb:2000` in your
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sketch's Makefile.
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Reflashing the esp-bridge serially: you should not need to do this, use the over-the-air
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reflashing by running `make wiflash`. If you do need to reflash serially, connect TX of a
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USB BUB to RX of the esp-bridge and RX to TX (i.e. cross-over). Hold the flash button down
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and briefly press the reset button. Then run esptool.py.as described below.
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jn-esp
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-------
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The jn-esp has an esp-03 module, an LPC824, a pseudo-FTDI connector (marked in tiny letters)
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and a JeePort (also marked). On the bottom it is marked "JN-ESP-V2".
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It comes preloaded with the latest version of esp-link.
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Power: the on-board MCP1825S-33 regulator can provide 500mA and is good from about 3.6v to 6v.
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Connect power to the FTDI connector (GND and 5V marked on bottom).
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On power-up you should see the green LED on for ~1 second (the yellow should go on too, but
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the firmware may not be configured correctly). After that the green should blink according to the
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patterns described in the README's LED indicators section. Follow the Wifi configuration details
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section thereafter.
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To program the LPC824 point the Embello uploader at port 23. Something like:
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```
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uploader -w -t -s 192.168.0.92:23 build/firmware.bin
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```
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Remove the -s option if you don't want to stay connected. A simple sketch to try this out
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with is the [hello sketch](https://github.com/jeelabs/embello/tree/master/projects/jnp/hello).
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The result should look something like:
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```
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$ uploader -w -t -s jn-esp:23 build/firmware.bin
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found: 8242 - LPC824: 32 KB flash, 8 KB RAM, TSSOP20
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hwuid: 16500407679C61AE7189A053830200F5
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flash: 0640 done, 1540 bytes
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entering terminal mode, press <ESC> to quit:
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[hello]
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500
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1000
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1500
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2000
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2500
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...
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```
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The pseudo-ftdi connector has the following pin-out:
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- 1: GND (marked on bottom)
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- 2: LPC824 P17/A9
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- 3: 5V (marked on bottom)
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- 4: LPC824 P11/SDA
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- 5: LPC824 P10/SCL
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- 6: LCP824 P23/A3/C4
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The JeePort connector has the following pin-out:
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- 1: LPC824 SWDIO/P2 (not 5v unlike JeeNodes!)
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- 2: LPC824 P14/A2/C3
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- 3: GND
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- 4: 3.3V (reg output)
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- 5: LPC824 P13/A10
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- 6: LPC824 SWCLK/P2
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Reflashing the jn-esp serially: you should not need to do this, use the over-the-air
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reflashing by running `make wiflash`.
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If you do need to serially reflash the jn-esp there are SMD pads for an FTDI connector on the
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bottom below the esp-03 module. GND is marked. The best is to solder a right-angle
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connector to it such that the pins point up (i.e. to the component side). You can then
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hook-up a USB-BUB. I recommend jumpering the flash pin (next to GND) to GND and to
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hook the reset pin (6) to the USB-BUB's DTR (should happen automatically). RX&TX also go
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straight through).
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Serial flashing
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---------------
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Once you have a version of esp-link flashed to your module or if you received a pre-flashed
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module from me you should not need this section. But sometimes things fail badly and your
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module is "brocked", this is how you receover.
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### Installing esptool.py
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On Linux I am using [esptool.py](https://github.com/themadinventor/esptool) to flash the esp8266.
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If you're a little python challenged (like I am) then the following install instructions might help:
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- Install ez_setup with the following two commands (I believe this will do something
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reasonable if you already have it):
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wget https://bootstrap.pypa.io/ez_setup.py
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python ez_setup.py
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- Install esptool.py:
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git clone https://github.com/themadinventor/esptool.git
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cd esptool
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python setup.py install
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cd ..
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esptool.py -h
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### Flashing esp-link
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Using esptool.py a esp-link release can be flashed as follows:
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```
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curl -L https://github.com/jeelabs/esp-link/releases/download/0.9.5/esp-link.tgz | tar xzf -
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cd firmware
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esptool.py write_flash 0x00000 boot_v1.3.b3.bi 0x1000 user1.bin 0x7e000 blank.bin
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```
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If you want to speed things up a bit and if you need to specify the port you can use a command
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line like:
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```
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esptool.py --port /dev/ttyUSB0 --baud 460880 write_flash 0x00000 boot_v1.4\(b1\).bin \
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0x1000 user1.bin 0x7e000 blank.bin
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```
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